october 2024
ALBERTO BURZI
We first met Alberto in 2018, the year we moved back to Langhe after our time in California. We rang the bell of an apartment in Santa Maria, a small fraction of La Morra, and walked down into the basement he was using as cellar and tasting room. Definitely a garagiste. While we tasted the wines, which were already delicious 6 years ago, Alberto told me how he caught the bug for farming from his grandparents, who owned grapevines and hazelnuts for the longest time and were smart enough not to sell their land during the tough times of the economic crisis.
In 2010, he graduated from the University of Turin with a degree in Viticulture and Oenology and began working as a consultant for local wineries. Two years later, he was making wine from the very vineyards his grandparents so wisely kept. Now Alberto is backed by Caterina, his younger sister, who’s just as passionate and is a major contribution to the entire project.
Cover crop, tressage (a technique that bends on itself the top of the vines instead of hedging) and a lot of attention to “change” in the vineyards. Alberto and Caterina are the perfect example of the young but smart new generations in the Langhe: a deep connection to their land, academic knowledge and an open mentality when it comes to adaptation.
Our selection and when you should pop that cork (our modest opinion):
- Barolo Capalot 2019 (old vines): Wise, powerful, intense. Drink 2027 - 2040
- Barolo 2019: Classic, elegant, velvety. Drink 2026-2038
- Nebbiolo 2022: Fresh, exuberant, gastronomic. Drink now
CASA TALLONE
Casa Tallone is one of the super cool new projects we recently added to our Club as well as import selection. Two brothers, Davide and Matteo, between Asti and the Roero region. Their adventure started with 4 rows in front of their house: every year, from these grapes, they produced Ca' d' Talün, better known as: "Wine not for sale, I drink it all with friends".
We met thanks to Valfaccenda, the leader of the new Roero generation next to Alberto Oggero. We went to a wine festival in Cisterna d’Asti and Luca Valfaccenda pointed at a guy (Davide), who was pouring and chatting while wearing a trucker hat that said VINO. “The most interesting new project in Roero, grab a glass and go taste”.
Arneis, Nebbiolo and Croatina are the grapes of choice, with the latter being one of the freshest wine news in the area and a big summer favorite. The total production is enough for Davide and Matteo’s friends plus a few others.
We’re happy to be able to support passionate new winemakers and their dreams, especially when they make great wine.
Our selection and when you should pop that cork (our modest opinion):
- Roero Rosso: Vibrant, floral, fresh. Drink now - 2030
- Cisterna d’Asti (Croatina): Crunchy, ripe, juicy. Drink now
- Roero Bianco: Mineral, salty, fresh. Drink now - 2028
SAN FEREOLO
Dogliani is only 15 minutes driving south from the town of Barolo, but already a completely different place and wines. Here we meet Nicoletta Bocca, one of the most important names in this rustic and still incredibly authentic wine region. From the world of fashion, she moved back to the countryside in the 90s with the intent of learning as much as she could from the old farmers of the area. Over the years, she developed her own style and interpretation, looking at wine from the perspective of a wine lover and not of a winemaker.
The lady of Dolcetto farms old vines with passion and a biodynamic (Demeter certified) technique, with Dolcetto from Dogliani sitting rightfully on the throne and an array of classic yet very contemporary wines.
“Growing wine grapes is an occupation that requires a deep moral commitment. It is also a job that helps you understand what nature is, how much we depend on it and to what extent we can control it, still without being arrogant. You need just a bit of experience and observation to find out that, if you don’t listen to and respect nature, you are just hurting yourself.”
The wines are pure and show great attention towards terroir: the Grignolino is very elegant with beautiful herbal tones, the Barbera is ripe, fruit forward and fresh just like the Asti province wants. The rosato is floral and the quintessential pairing for a warm summer day.
Our selection and when you should pop that cork (our modest opinion):
- Dogliani Vigne Dolci: Vibrant, juicy, spicy. Drink now - 2030
- Dolcetto La Lupa: Fresh, pure, whimsica. Drink now
- Coste di Valanche (field blend Riesling and Gewurtraminer): Aromatic, creative, fresh. Drink now
PUNSET
Marina Marcarino took over her family vineyards in her early 20s, She had a revolutionary idea for the 1980s: to turn the vineyard organic. Marina called the winery Punset and became the first organic producer in Barbaresco. Her vineyards look different, her practices were strange to most back then and when she started using biodynamic in the 1990s, her reputation as “la pazza” – the crazy, was cemented.
Just like the winemaker, these wines have a lot of character. Visiting Punset is always a lot more than just drinking wine: Marina has lots of interests and the conversation will easily touch upon contemporary art, literature and politics.
Our selection and when you should pop that cork (our modest opinion):
- Barbaresco Basarin Riserva 2016: Complex, classic, refined. Drink now - 2030
- Langhe Nebbiolo: Floral, fruity, harmonious. Drink now
- Barbera d’Alba: Juicy, fresh, ripe. Drink now
Cauliflower velouté with crunchy bacon
What you need:
- - Medium cauliflower 1 (about 1.75 lbs)
- - Red onion 1
- - Vegetable broth 4 cups
- - Bacon (sliced) 3.5oz
- - 1 tablespoon olive oil
- - Salt and pepper to taste
- - One large nonstick pot
- - One immersion blender
How it is done:
Prepare the vegetables: Clean the cauliflower by removing the leaves and separate it into florets, and thinly slice the onion. In a large pot over medium-high heat, cook the bacon until crispy and golden. Drain the excess fat on a paper towel, and keep aside. In the same pot add a tablespoon of olive oil add the onion and sauté until soft and golden. Add the cauliflower florets and cook for a few minutes, stirring occasionally.
Season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour in the vegetable broth, ensuring it covers the cauliflower. Bring to a boil and simmer for about 20–25 minutes, until the cauliflower is tender.
Once the cauliflower is cooked, blend the soup with an immersion blender until smooth and creamy. Regulate with salt and pepper.
How to serve:
Ladle the hot soup into a large bowl and top with the crispy bacon. Optionally, drizzle with a bit of extra virgin olive oil and garnish with finely chopped chives.
You can complete the dish serving as a side two slices of toasted focaccia.
Bell Pepper with Bagna Cauda
What you need:
- - Bell peppers (yellow and red) 4
- - Anchovy fillets in oil 6
- - Garlic cloves 6
- - Olive oil 2/3 cup
- - Unsalted butter 2 tb. Spoons
- - Salt to taste
- - One Oven
- - One small saucepan
- - One immersion blender
How it is done:
Roast the bell peppers either on a grill or in the oven at 400°F until their skin is blistered and charred. Once roasted, place them in a paper or plastic bag for about 10 minutes. This will make peeling easier.
Peel the peppers, remove the seeds, and cut them into strips. Set Aside.
For the bagna cauda: In a small saucepan, melt the butter with the milk over low heat. Add the peeled garlic cloves (removing their core for easier digestion) and cook gently until the garlic becomes soft, but not browned. Add the anchovy fillets and cook slowly until they dissolve into the mixture.
Stir in the milk to make the sauce creamier and cook for another 10 minutes on low heat, stirring occasionally. Now blend the whole to obtain a creamy sauce.
How to serve:
Pour the warm bagna cauda over the pepper strips and serve immediately.
Beef brasato
What you need:
- - Beef chuck or rump roast 2.2 lbs (1 kg)
- - Full-bodied red wine 1 bottle (750 ml)
- - Red Onion 1
- - Carrots 2
- - Celery stalk 1
- - Sprig of rosemary 1
- - Sage leaves 2
- - Flour, as needed
- - Olive oil, as needed
- - Salt and pepper, to taste
- - One Dutch Oven
How it is done:
Place the beef in a large bowl and cover it with the red wine. Add the sliced onion, chopped carrots, celery, crushed garlic cloves, rosemary, and sage leaves. Cover and let it marinate in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours (overnight is best).
Remove the beef from the marinade and pat it dry with paper towels. Lightly dust the beef with flour on all sides.
In a large Dutch oven, heat some olive oil over medium heat. Sear the beef on all sides until it's golden brown, creating a nice crust. Remove the beef from the pot and set aside. In the same pot, sauté the marinated vegetables for a few minutes until softened.
Return the beef to the pot, pour in the wine from the marinade, and season with salt and pepper. Cover the pot and simmer over low heat for about 3 hours, turning the beef occasionally. If the liquid reduces too much, add a little beef broth or water to keep the beef submerged. The beef is done when it becomes tender and can be easily shredded with a fork.
At this point, remove the beef from the pot and slice it. Strain the cooking liquid and reduce it over medium heat to create a rich sauce.
How to serve:
Serve the sliced braised beef with the sauce drizzled on top, accompanied by mashed potatoes, polenta, or roasted vegetables.
Stuffed zucchini gratin
What you need:
- - Zucchinis 4 (large)
- - Ground beef 10.5 oz
- - Egg 1
- - Green onion 1
- - Parmesan cheese 1/2 cup (grated)
- - Breadcrumbs 2/3 cup
- - Fresh parsley, chopped (to taste)
- - Salt and pepper to taste
- - Olive oil (extra virgin) to taste
- - Milk (optional, to soften the filling)
- - One oven Trey
- - One bowl
How it is done:
To prepare the zucchinis: wash the zucchinis and cut them in half lengthwise. Scoop out the pulp with a spoon, leaving about a ¼ inch (0.5 cm) border. Set the pulp aside. Blanch the hollowed zucchinis in salted water for about 5 minutes, just until they soften slightly. Drain them and let them cool on a paper towel.
Then finely chop the onion and the zucchini pulp. Heat a little olive oil in a pan and sauté the onion. After a couple of minutes, add the zucchini pulp and cook for about 5–7 minutes until it softens. Let the mixture cool.
In a bowl, combine the ground meat, egg, Parmesan cheese, breadcrumbs, parsley, salt, and pepper. Add the sautéed onion and zucchini mixture. If the filling feels too dry, you can add a bit of milk to soften it. Fill each zucchini with the meat mixture, smoothing it out with a spoon. Place the stuffed zucchinis on a lightly greased baking sheet. Sprinkle the zucchinis with some breadcrumbs and grated cheese to create a crispy topping.
Drizzle a little olive oil over the top and bake at 350°F (180°C) for about 25–30 minutes, or until the zucchinis are golden, and the filling is fully cooked. If you want a crispier top, turn on the broiler for the last 5 minutes.
How to serve:
Put the zucchini in a large white dish. You can complete the dish with some sour cream or some Parmesan fondue.